The Delta Queen...."Ole Lady of Chattanooga"

There we were sitting in a bar having a quiet relaxing drink, when a conversation struck up between two strangers discussing the merits of the early 20th century steam engine. Despite this not sounding the most enthralling subject, the knowledge of the two participants together with the location we were in made it riveting viewing as they tried to outdo each other with their expertise on the subject. We were on board the Delta Queen, an old Steam Paddle Boat now used as a a floating hotel, moored on the Tennessee River in the charming city of Chattanooga , Tennessee . As if they were playing to an audience, both happily threw fact and counter fact at each other at a considerably healthy volume allowing anyone who wanted to listen in. It was like taking part in an interactive history lecture, just one of many experiences in our overnight stay on this wonderful historical ship.

Our day had begun early on the morning on the outskirts of Chattanooga and we had gone straight to Point Park in the Lookout Mountain area to take in the wonderful views offered. From this spot you can be rewarded with views of seven states, Georgia , Tennessee , Mississippi , The Carolina's of North and South, Kentucky and Virginia . However, the mist on the hot summer morning obscured our view although we still saw the most wonderful landscapes that made the diversion well worth including on our schedule. The Mountain also has a close association with the Civil War, with the fighting marked here by cannons, Monuments and also a museum passing on details of the areas role in the conflict.

The city of Chattanooga itself was a wonderful experience, it was modern, friendly and seemed so clean and cared for. We took a gentle stroll round the streets taking in the legendary Moon pie shop, home to all sorts of purchasable memorabilia in honour to the cake which was first made in the city before it’s delights spread across America. We also took time to visit the old Railway Station made infamous by Glen Millers tune, “The Chattanooga Choo Choo”, now turned in a hotel but still showing its beautiful architecture particularly in the ticket office now used as the hotels reception area. At the rear the former platforms now house a train engine with carriages quirkily used as bedrooms for the hotels numerous paying guests

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In the hot afternoon heat we made good use of the free Electric shuttle bus service, allowing us to hop off and on as we further explored other attractions in the downtown area. We ended up at the riverside area close to the modern Aquarium centre. It was there we took sight of our accommodation for the evening, the Steam Boat “The Delta Queen”, colourfully basking in the summer sunshine, a wonderful sight on the North Shore side of the river. We crossed the river via the impressive "Walnut Street" Pedestrian bridge towards the beautifully manicured lawns of Coolidge Park where the boat was moored at their landing point.

As we boarded the boat there was just so much to take in, the red,white and blue coloured flags together with the brightly painted woodwork, a good old fashioned example of Americana from a bygone age.






Leaving the decks and entering the internal reception area was like stepping back in time. The decor and fittings were stunning and together with the Victorian periodic furniture created
a wonderful first impression. With luggage stored in our compact but charming room we
couldn't wait to explore the other areas of the boat.
 We spent an age wandering round the communal rooms as if visiting a museum. There was so much to look at, artifacts collected over the years, old books full of stories from years gone by, scrapbooks cataloguing the history of the vessel and wonderful old black and white framed photographs of previous Owners, Captains, Crew and the Delta Queens Sister Ships lined up on the walls.







Towards the front of the boat was the eye catching Grand Staircase, with a gorgeous Crystal chandelier above it. This lead up to the Texas Deck which houses the Hotels' own on board eatery "The Paddle wheel Restaurant"


Like the two engine experts mentioned previously, there are a group of enthusiast's who regularly visit and in some cases volunteer to help maintain the ship. Whilst we were on board there were a group of OAP's merrily polishing silverware whilst reminiscing about the past and openly passing on their knowledge to any inquisitive guests. It was endearing to see such passion from all the volunteers and staff on board as if they were caring for an old friend.




Perhaps if we had been in a normal everyday hotel then the small rooms and the slight musty smell in the communal areas would have been a turn off, but this was after all a 90 year old vessel, part of living history and to me it was all part of the experience. The boat also had a real atmosphere to it, although that was not due to the infamous ghost "Ma Greene" who is reported to be a permanent resident on board.

 

As the sun was setting and night fall beginning to take over we sat in rocking chairs on the upper decks of the boat, staring out at the wonderful views of the river and bridges right in front of us. The lights of the riverside buildings reflected in the waters creating a kaleidoscope of colour on the ripples of the river. It was so calm and relaxed on this humid southern night, I sat back in full contentment, worry free, reflecting on a wonderful day. Our visit to the city was meant as a stay over on our trip to Nashville, however Chattanooga had won us over with its charm and beauty and the Delta Queen added that extra special something to the trip. The boats regal name had really been quite fitting as our stay on board had been the jewel in the crown from a city that had offered so much. 

 

Ludlow...before a town awakes

8.30am on a pleasant summer Sunday morning and circumstances had found us on the outskirts of Ludlow, a picturesque market town in South Shropshire close to the Welsh border. We had visited the town many years ago and had recollections of the beautiful old buildings so we decided to take a break and have a stroll round the town centre.

The town is set at the top of a hill high above the River Teme and as you climb up to the town centre itself, you are greeted by the most marvellous buildings. The historical Black and White decorative timber facades just ooze with character. Ludlow reportably has over 500 listed buildings within its boundaries and as you look around the architecture is breathtaking. The most eye catching place on the main thoroughfare is the fabulous hotel called "The Feathers" which dates back to 17th Century when it was originally an old Coaching Inn. One can’t do anything other than stand back and admire the frontage, particularly with the attention to detail on the decorative engravings carved into the wooden facade. A peak through the window showed the character of the building continues inside with the low beamed ceilings and open fire place creating an atmospheric scene.

Across the street there were other examples although some now housed shops with the more modern glass frontages which obviously has detracted some of the splendour of the architecture. However, there are still a large amount of unspoilt examples such as "Ye Old Bull Ring Tavern", a fine old hostelry just round the corner from The Feathers Hotel. Just staring at the magnificent building sets your imagination racing of some of the tales and stories that must have been witnessed there over the years.

 

Wandering off one of the many side streets the area seemed deserted and there was a eerie silence to the streets despite the ringing of the church bells close by. Although the majority of the shops were shut, they were unusual and interesting enough to spend time window shopping at the many varied items being sold. Many catered for a specialist clientele such as arts and crafts whilst refreshingly, most being exclusive, locally owned, independent retailers and not the multi-national chains that British towns always seem so full of. This was extremely evident in the number of family named Bakers, Butchers and delicatessens all promoting locally sourced products. Although saying this, we did come across a Costa Coffee which was open and in order to help us recover from our early car journey, we entered to obtain a sufficient caffeine burst to see us through the rest of our excursion. Inside we found an abundance of people, relaxing with their Lattes whilst reading the Sunday newspapers, obviously the place to be on an early Sunday morning in Ludlow.

With our renewed energy levels we walked on towards the Market Square and found an Antiques Market taking place, quite different to the normal Farmers Markets that Ludlow regularly holds. It was wonderful, like a car boot sale for the wealthy, none of your old VHS videotapes for sale here, it was top quality items only. We spent an age just wandering round from stall to stall looking at the most varied selection of goods from statues to vases, to ceremonial weapons. It was like visiting a museum where you could actually purchase the exhibits with such an array of the old and unusual all in excellent condition despite their age. Ear wigging in on the conversation between stallholders and their potential buyers was fascinating, like a living history lesson with both parties reminiscing about the past, conversation such as “i'm not sure what it is but my grandmother used to have one of those". I found the books stalls particularly enthralling with all manners of strange, obscure and weird titles, their leather bound covers making it look like they have been took straight off the shelves of the National Library, certainly no signs here of any dog eared copies of “Fifty Shades of Grey” being sold for 50p.

   

Just across from the square was the gates to Ludlow Castle , although not open at this time of the morning, it was impressive and the ruins looked majestic in the bright morning sunshine. The Castle is around 900 years old and again features fine architecture from the Norman, Medieval and Tudor periods. The Castle grounds together with the Castle Square are also used regularly throughout the year to host various events and festivals such as Shakespeare Plays, Food events and Family Fun days amongst others.  

As we walked back through the town as the clock struck 11am it was if someone had flicked a switch as the town suddenly burst into life at an instant. Shop doors were opened, the small streets around the centre began to get clogged up with lines of cars and a stream of people were appearing from the Car Park areas to the focus points of the town. A total transformation from the peace and quiet we had encountered when we first arrived early on the morning, but evidence that Ludlow is a popular place to visit and understandably so.  

Visiting Ludlow is a history lesson in itself and one can see exactly why Sir John Betjeman described it as "the loveliest town in England".

Book Review - A Bull on the Beach by Anna Nicholas

A Bull on the Beach by Anna Nicholas is the fifth book in the series portraying the authors life on her adopted island of Mallorca. The book concentrates on her families attempt to become more self sufficient and in turn illustrates how she has become accepted and is now a prominent part of the local community. For me, the most enjoyable feature of the book is the wide range of diverse characters the family come across as part of their everyday life. We are introduced to some extremely eccentric people ensuring humorous tales are not too far away.

Overall the book is full of feel good, easy reading tales and will certainly raise plenty’s of smiles to those experiencing it. Most importantly, the authors love for the island of Mallorca is evident and no opportunity is missed for this passion to shine through as the stories unfold.

 

 

Publisher: Summersdale 

ISBN-13: 978-1849532631