Portsmouth...Proud and Historic

It was as a lad of 14 that I had first encountered Portsmouth , a visit that had led to a lifelong interest in a true British hero, Lord Horatio Nelson and his flagship HMS Victory. I was part of a group of school children invited by the Royal Navy Careers service to spend a few days stationed in the city docks as part of their recruitment campaign. They certainly won me over and I would gladly have joined up to serve Queen and country but for the advice of the careers adviser at the time. He was basically a chain smoking metal work teacher who had been forced to do some after school activity that he obviously wasn’t qualified for. There was certainly none of the professional advisers or recruitment specialists that are freely available to school leavers these days that may have led me to a life on the Ocean Waves.

 Despite other visits in my late teens, I found it was a place I had not been to for a number of years despite my continued interest in the Navy and therefore I was relishing my return with all the schoolboy excitement felt many years before.  I started my visit in a place with the unusual name of "The Hard", a busy area due to a bus interchange, close to the entrance to the historical Dockyards. It was here I was afforded my first view of the Magnificent HMS Warrior, Britain's first iron hulled warship built in 1860. The scale of the ship with its enormous masts was stunning, a perfect introduction to the sights they were to come.

Although It is free to walk round the dockyards, if you wish to go into the exhibitions on site or experience life on board any of the historical ships then an admittance ticket needs to be purchased. This ticket allows access to The Mary Rose story, the National Museum of the Royal Navy and the hands on experience of "Action Stations" . Although the free entrance allows you to see the historic buildings and stand next to the infamous HMS Victory, the true experience will only be gained by going on board to get a feeling for the cramped conditions the 800 strong crew must have endured during the many battles they were involved in .Visitors have the chance to see the Great cabin where the senior officers planned the battle strategy, the impressive lines of Cannons on the gun decks and also the place where Nelson finally died. 

The entrance fee also includes a 45 Minute boat trip round Portsmouth Harbour allowing close up views of any of the Royal Navy fleet that are in port. On the day I visited 14 warships including Aircraft Carriers and Frigates were docked giving you the chance to take in the vast size of these vessels.

Just a short walk away from the dockyard is an impressive modern entertainment  complex  "Gunwharf Quays", housing designer outlets, multiscreen cinema, and a massive choice of bars and restaurants. With its undercover pedestrianised avenues, bars over looking the harbour and it's abundance of out door dining opportunities there is a fresh, cosmopolitan feel to the place. Additionally, spaced out across the open thoroughfares were cannons, anchors and eye catching brightly painted figureheads, symbols of the Maritime heritage of the location. 

At the harbour front of the complex is the striking Spinnaker Tower, opened in 2005, the 170m high tower provides the most fantastic views of the area stretching as far as 23 miles away. The artistic design representing a billowing sail fits in perfectly with the nautical theme of the area and is an inspirational landmark for all the boats entering Portsmouth Harbour. At the top of the tower there is an open viewing platform called the "Crows Nest" which is ideal if you have a head for heights, however be prepared to hold onto your hat as it can be very windy. In turn the first deck incorporates a glass floor, again a chance to check ones nerves and also your faith in the workmen who installed it.   

Just a short walk further on is the area known as "Old Portsmouth", full of historical buildings, fortifications and glorious sea views. The character of the streets is still evident and one can envisage the dark stories of the 1800's when the area was associated with the dreaded "Press Gangs", unruly hostelries and drunken Sailors. Thankfully those days are gone but the grim old tales live on through the information boards plotted along the enjoyable Millennium Walkway route. The route takes in places and buildings of interest such as "The Spur Redoubt", a statue commemorating the spot Nelson left for the Battle of Trafalgar and "The Round and Square Towers" part of Portsmouth defence fortifications across the centuries. Close by are the "The Hot Walls" offering the most splendid views of the entrance to the harbour areas. A place where many tears of sadness and happiness have been shed as it is the perfect viewing spot to watch the departure or arrival of the many warships on their stints away at sea.

Within the Old Portsmouth streets are many pubs and restaurants, openly portraying their role serving its customers over the years, The Dolphin being in existence since 1716. I chose my last calling point for the day at the atmospheric "The Still and West" right on the sea front, offering wonderful views whilst sampling gorgeous Fish and Chips served in a quirky newspaper wrapping. It had been a long but rewarding day, totally living up to my expectations, however I would recommend spreading the visit over at least a couple of days. With other attractions in the area, such as The Royal Navy Submarine Museum across the harbour in Gosport, I certainly have an excuse to revisit and I am hoping it is not such a long absence next time.    

I once recall being stood beneath Nelsons column in London hearing a group of children talking about the person on the top of the plinth......I stood there aghast that they actually thought it was Nelson Mandela. As much as Mr Mandela is an icon for his works and fight against apartheid, this saddened me deeply and made me worry for the future of our own historical heroes who have served their country over the centuries. However, like an old soldier putting on his blazer and attaching his medals, Portsmouth relishes the opportunity to showcase its service and achievements for the country. Around every corner are tributes, memorials and statues celebrating the City's role throughout the years. I think it is safe to say that history and tradition is guaranteed to be promoted in Portsmouth, a place that will always remember.